The Empire of Philippine Caves on Luzon
The Philippine archipelago is not craving for unusual landscape panoramas. The subterranean offer is also impressive. There are thousands of caves in the Philippines, which have particularly formed by the chemical dissolution of limestone in the history of earth. It’s only a bit exaggeration to say that the cave structure of certain areas is comparable a sponge full of holes. The number of cave visitors slowly grows. Now and then a bizarre almost unrealistic scenario offer surprises the visitors. A lot of caves are not recorded and investigated. I. The historic view Filipinos met the “extra-worldly” caves in the past mostly with shyness and anxiety. For many they have been enchanted. In the naive popular belief they represent the empire of the dark, the ghosts and the devil. In a more pragmatic view they have been only places for the keeping dead bodies. And there are still some few caves, e.g. the "Lumiang Burial Cave" at Sagada (Central Cordilleras), which show astonished tourists hundreds of old and newer coffins and skeletons. Even so, the visitor should be warned; in the firm belief of the natives - pointing to these relics means to provoke the evil. However, the possible chance of a fast wealth has partly faded away the old deep respect for the caves. Many are still searching for General Yamashitas golden treasure (1) or at least old Chinese porcelain. Looting have already been detected. So the "Crystal Cave" and the "Matangkib Burial Cave" at Sagada (Central Cordilleras) have been closed for uncertain time because of looting of relics or artifacts. Stupid graffiti and pollution by burning torches caused already damages and color changes. II. Why to go to caves? There are some reasons not to go to caves. People suffering from claustrophobia with panic anxiety psychoses are well advised to avoid caves with steep overhangs and narrow passages. Moreover, there are caves, which are accessible only with difficulties. The "Cathedral Cave" for example on Coron Island (Northern Palawan) can only be entered from the sea side. But before entering you have to dive approx. dip six meters and to pass a 12 meters depth descending tunnel. A corpulent visitor who wants to visit the famous "Callao Cave" (Northern Luzon) has to climb up 120 steeply stairs first. With sweat pearls on the forehead he says perhaps to himself: „I would have preferred to fly to Palawan anyway. On the Underground River paddle bancas bring me up 4 kms comfortably into the inside of the ”St. Paul's Cave”. Some shun the walk through damp, dark cave walks which are regularly only insufficiently illuminated, when it is not a definite tourist cave. From time to time, you could find crashed roofs, rock fall, unstable screeds, slippery rocks, shafts leading the darkness and labyrinthine passages which end in the nowhere. Perhaps you have to pass a cold underground stream or you have to climb up or down by using ladders or ropes. What is happening, if your leg hits on a hard rock, if you break your foot or the way back cannot be found anymore? Some surely do not feel well if they see thousands of bats hanging on the walls. More or less stinking guano carpets on the ground can be a sign for their presence. The latent fears increases perhaps at sight of snakes, frogs or spiders. Nevertheless, caves can be a very special room of experience. It is already a tremendous symphony of forms, colors and landscapes which can be seen: big masses of amorphous rocks - - stalagmites hanging from the ceiling like icicles – columns - cascades of overhangs, which remind of frozen watercourses and special crystallizations like plaster flowers or cave pearls. Some caves have the size of cathedrals and have grottos and side grottos. Many show underground ponds. Special light and color effects can arise, if the daylight is shining from above through cracks or openings into the darkness of the cave and dimensions and colors get more visible. III.. Brief descriptions of striking caves We concentrate here on the peculiarities of some caves and ignore general appearances like stalagmites and stalactites or bats. Please consult your tourist guide book for further information about the routes. We start in the north of the Philippines. III.1. Caves in northern Luzon Peneblanca limestone formation : This near Tuguegaro situated region has been described as "Cave country". The region has more than three hundred caves. Many of them are not investigated sufficiently because of their depth and dangerousness. The cave expert Bert M. Schuldes writes almost effusively: “I know some caves in the world, but this cave system unites a combination of features, which presumably makes it rather unique in the world" (2). Callao Cave: This at a mountain slope situated cave shows altogether seven cathedral like halls. Especially in the deep of the cave are variously shaped dripstone formations, which look like mushrooms, curtains and columns. For Hanewald it is "one of the most beautiful caves in the country". Visitors are fascinated by the lighting effects which come in from fissures aboveground. A chapel with banks is located in the first hall. The mass is read here on Sundays. The visit of the cave is not dangerous. The following caves are in the direct neighborhood. Jackpot Cave: With 115 meters of depth, it is the second deepest cave of the Filipinos. The cave even has a marsh. Only cave experts should visit it because of the deep, dark shafts and partial flood in the rainy season. Odessa-Tumbali Cave System: The cave complex with outstanding rock formations has at least five entrances and extends over 12 kilometers. The channels and lakes are also visited by divers, who are not afraid of cold water. There is flood danger; therefore, it is better for normal tourists to engage a well-informed cave guide. San Carlos Cave: No cave for the normal tourist. It requires persevering and experienced visitors, who enjoy to clamber up, to wade and to swim. Approximately half of the cave is under water. The cave got famous especially because oft its “Ice Cream Parlor”, a larger group of whitely stalagmites. A sub-water marsh has the name of John the Baptist. Timbac Cave (near Kabayan): It has been pillaged by mummy robbers largely in the twenties. Still in the seventies mummies were shifted because of the "strong rains". Single repatriations have taken place. A source reports, that there are now eight coffins stacked on each other and 15 mummies. The cave is protected. Hundred Island Caves (proximity San Fernando): The mini-island archipelago has approximately ten fewer attractive caves. The greatest is the Nelsoc Cave with a length of approx. hundred and a height of three to eight meters. The smaller Alama Cave shows more interesting cave formations. A visit is advisable in connection with an island-hopping.
Pamitan and Calinawan Cave (north of Manila): These caves are also from historical importance. The Pamitan Cave served the Katipunan movement as an ordnance depot. Here Bonifacio has already declared the independence of the Philippines ("Viva of La Independencia Filipinas") in 1895, a year before the official revolution. The Calinawan Cave, also called "Japanese Cave", was the last retreat place of the Japanese troops before its surrender in 1945. A weapon arsenal was found here after the war. Hanewald speculates: „Perhaps something is still hidden under the thick guano carpet" (4). III.2 Caves in the southern Luzon The Bathala Caves are on the island of Marinduque (170 km southeast of Manila). The bat rich caves are in private property, three of the seven caves are accessible. The main cave is called "Simahan" (church) because of its great dimensions. It is supposed, that the skeletons here belong to soldiers of World War II. In the past, there have been tame pythons in a cave niche. More in the south there are some caves, which are not belonging to the “hot spots”, however. Worth mentioning are the Calabidongan Caves and the Pariaan Caves (both nearby St. Domingo), the Minarosa Caves (Batan Island) and the Calabidongan Cave (nearby Camalig). The last one has an underground water course and a high bat population. The near situated Camalig Church shows bones, pottery and pearl decorations. It is assumed that that they are over 6000 years old. On Burias Island (near Donsol) a cave was in 1999 “officially” discovered. It has only a narrow entrance but inside the dimensions of a cathedral. The cave was also a prehistoric burial place. The Hoyop-Hoyopan limestone caves nearby Legaspi are well-known. The naming refers to the permanent wind which blows at the entrance. The found archaeological artifacts from pre-Christian time are now in the nearby Camalig Church or in the National Museum of Manila. The island of Masbate shows several remarkable caves. The Claveria Caveis a sub-water cave is and easily accessible for divers. It’s also an old burial place and shows shrines, which are some 500 years old. IV. Anecdote It is well-known, that some animal products like jellyfishes, sea horses and duck eggs are also consumed in Asia because of alleged support of virility or masculine potency. Hanewald tells another story (4). In 1992 the authorities confiscated on Cebu 452 tons of stalagmite material. To understand the background, it is necessary to know, that stalactites are “hanging” from the ceiling of a cave, while stalagmites are “standing” on the soil. The “standing” property of the stalagmites induced some eager cave robbers to steal material and to send it grinded in abroad. Who knows, perhaps also grinded piers of a bridge are becoming part of aphrodisiacs in future? If faith – as it is written - can move mountains, why not little cocks? © Wolfgang Bethge, 2007 (1) W. Bethge, Yamashitas Goldschatz, in: http://bethge.freepage.de/gold.htm (2) Bert M. Schultes: Callao Caves - die Höhlen von Callao, in: www.schuldes.org/home1/touren/callcaves/cave.htm (3) Roland F. Hanewald, Philippinen Abenteuer-Handbuch, 2. Auflage, 1996, S. 144 (4) Roland F. Hanewald, Philippinen Abenteuer-Handbuch, 2.Auflage, 1996, S. 142
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Sagada Caves